No kidding, they've been doing it again. Various foreign ministers of EU and OIC (Org of Islamic Council) countries have just been holding a joint conference in Istanbul. Not clear what they're going to produce aside from a plethora of press statements but the location is an acknowledgement of Turkey's unique position as a nonreligious, democratic government with a 99% Muslim population. It's not necessarily graceful: Western allies say Turkey needs to clean up its civil rights issues before it achieves full EU membership, while its more hardline neighbors shift away from it on the Group W bench due to its tacky separation of church and state. Who are the neighbors anyway? Clockwise from top left, we've got: Greece, Bulgaria, Georgia, Armenia, Iran, Iraq, and Syria. Mmm ain't that a fun tea party! Around here we care deeply about Bush deciding to bomb Iraq or not.
Of course this strategic, slightly awkward position isn't exactly new, which is part of the reason it's so nifty to visit now. The region has heard the pitter-patter of many different feet, from Neanderthals on up, most of which have left something behind to mark their culture and presence. (Think Asia Minor if it helps with the historical perspective.) The most blissful tourist can't ignore the massive, grim housing projects and other signs of poverty, but Turks know that their country has a lot to offer and something about the place is so engaging I don't know if you could come here and not like it. The landscape is stunning and varied, people relaxed, ruins and relics like nowhere else, food is good, even the pop music is ok (sounds like traditional music plus a drum machine). I can't speak for high season, sounds hot and crowded, but so far winter is just lovely. Snow in the interior, warm days and cool nights on the coast. The only downside is the lack of other tourists to deflect the carpet salesmen.
In Istanbul I visited Aya Sofya (Hagia Sophia, Santa Sophia), the old Ottoman Emperors' palace, and various other medieval bits and pieces. The old bazaar is touristy now but still fun. In Cappadocia I was bowled over by the underground cities carved out of soft volcanic rock by early persecuted Christian communities. They generally lived on the surface, just ducked underneath when armies came through to wipe them out. The same people carved into cliffs and hillsides. The local leftover Christians were all swapped with Greek Muslims a while back, so these empty warrens are now a good place to explore, get lost, and ponder. It's something to be standing in a deserted cliffside monastery, hearing the Islamic call to prayer echo across the valley.
Since then I've been moving slowly west along the Mediterranean coast. The shrubbery is thorny and unforgiving but any walk also brings the smell of wild rosemary, thyme, and sage. The air is clean like, um, winter Mediterranean air. Ruins are a good excuse to ramble around and climb on things.
Are you all convinced yet? I think you should aim for spring or fall, and rent a car to set yourself free to explore. Busses are cheap and easy but set you up for a town-to-town trip. Not such a bad thing considering.
One more set of ruins (Ephesus) then I'm off to Austria. No that wasn't on the original itinerary. Yes it makes sense.
Best,
-Sarah